Paying For College: Ways To Save

Last week, we examined how decisions play an important role in paying for college. This week, we look at ways to pay for college. While parents usually assume the responsibility of funding their kids’ education, kids can also be involved in saving for their own education. Let’s look at the ways to save and pay for college.

529 Plan

One of the most popular ways to save for college is through a 529 plan. Named after Section 529 of the IRS tax code, you guessed it! There are tax benefits to saving in this type of account. The main tax benefits are that your savings grow tax-deferred, and your withdrawals are tax-free if used for qualified education expenses. Depending on the state you live in, contributions to the 529 plan may be deductible for state tax purposes, but are not tax-deductible on federal taxes. Not all states offer a 529 plan, but you can still open a 529 plan offered by another state. Keep in mind that a 529 plan is like the flower pot we reference time and time again. You choose the “seed” investments that go in the account, so you can gain or lose money, depending on how your investments perform. We’ll take a deeper dive into the 529 plan in the future, but there is a good introduction provided by the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission.

Prepaid Tuition Plans

We won’t spend much time on Prepaid Tuition Plans because only a few states offer this option. If you live in a state that offers this option, the plan allows you to buy future credits at today’s tuition prices. As an example, if one course credit costs $1,000 today, but doubles to $2,000 by the time you go to college, you essentially got a 50% discount on education. Think of it as locking in tuition at today’s prices. The downside to this plan is that you are pretty much stuck with choosing a participating in-state college. Although your state’s Prepaid Tuition Plan may offer some portability to other in-state and out-of-state colleges, the penalties and reduced benefits of choosing non-participating colleges make other savings options more viable.

Non-Qualified Account

If you want the most freedom and flexibility, then a non-qualified account will be your best choice for college savings. This can be through a bank savings account or a brokerage account (which allows for investments beyond cash). Like a 529 plan, your savings can go up or down, based on what you invest in. Unlike a 529 plan, your earnings don’t receive any tax benefits, so taxes take a bigger chunk out of savings. However, you can use the money however you choose, even if it’s not for college. The previous options are not as forgiving when withdrawing money for other non-education expenses, charging an extra 10% withdrawal penalty, in addition to taxes on withdrawals.

Financial Aid

We mentioned last week that scholarships are worth a try, since they are essentially free money that does not have to be paid back. Grants are also free money, but not everyone qualifies for grants because they are based on a family’s financial need. Another need-based option is work-study, where students are given a part-time job to earn money while attending school. Finally, if there is not enough money to pay for college upfront, you can borrow money in the form of student loans. While you are required to pay back the money with interest, the interest rates on student loans are relatively low compared to other types of loans, and you usually have a grace period after graduation before repayment begins. Both parents and children need to be involved when it comes to financial aid – scholarships, grants, work-study and loans. The other options begin years in advance, sometimes as early as birth, so parents typically shoulder the responsibility of saving. On the other hand, financial aid planning happens the year before college, so children have reached an age where they can and should be involved in financial decisions.

As a reminder, college decisions are just as important as saving for college. That’s why both parents and children need to be educated (excuse the pun!) when it comes to paying for college!

Homework: Students, test your business skills by giving parents a presentation on 3 different colleges and how you would pay for each one. Whatever format you use to present, be prepared for Q&A at the end!

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Paying For College: Decisions, Decisions

At a recent speaking event, I was asked by a concerned parent, “How do I prepare financially for my kids to go to college?” As important a role as parents have in funding college, the kids have an equal if not greater role in the cost of college education. That is because the kids are the ones applying to schools and deciding where they apply and ultimately where they attend. This question inspired me to answer with a two-part post on Paying For College, with this post intended for future college students and the next post intended for parents or whoever will be paying for college.

Kids have a lot to consider when deciding where to attend college. Let’s weigh the financial impact of those decisions.

State school or private school? When we hear names of private universities like Harvard or Stanford, we all know they come with a hefty price tag. Based on those two colleges, $50,000 a year seems to be the going rate as an undergrad. Is it worth paying all that money to go to them? Maybe. But if you can’t readily afford $50,000 a year, will you be earning enough money after college to pay back your student loans? Do you even want student loans to eat a portion of your paycheck after college? US News & World Report calculated in-state tuition to be 73% less than private colleges. Imagine your favorite gadget or clothes at 73% off. That’s a hard deal to pass up! If your heart is still set on being an Ivy League grad, perhaps it’s worth considering a transfer after you have attended a year or two at a state college. Just remember, there is more than one path you can take.

Live at home vs. dorm/apartment? Another reason to consider an in-state college is to save on living costs. Living away from home can be pretty expensive. Not only do you have the cost of boarding, but you also have to think about food, laundry, dorm/apartment goods and travel to/from home. These are conveniences you didn’t have to worry about when you were in high school. Are you moving your car with you to college? That’s another bundle of expenses, from gas to parking. Living costs are probably as big a decision as college tuition itself.

To work or not to work? In addition to studying and partying, you will probably end up working during college. How else do you afford your college lifestyle? While a job teaches valuable lessons and can propel your future career, it can detract from your time and attention. Keep this in mind before you choose a college with a price tag that requires you to work. On the opposite end of the spectrum, there is the option to take a year off to gather working experience and build savings before continuing education. Some employers even offer to pay for a portion or all of your education expenses. Only you know what options are right for you, but the point is — you have options.

Scholarships and financial aid? Just like you apply for colleges, you can also apply for financial aid. Don’t be afraid to try for scholarships and financial assistance. You’re already filling out forms and writing essays for college applications. What’s another application? You might need some help from a parent to fill-out financial aid forms, but otherwise, this falls in your ballpark. You have to make the effort to apply!

These are some important considerations that not only impact your college decision, but also impact the rest of your life. So even if you’re not the one paying for college, your decisions matter!

Homework: Time to do some research! How much is tuition at colleges you like? What would your living situation be, and how much would it cost?

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Insurance: The Safety Net

What sad news this week with passing of legend Kobe Bryant. Then we hear about all the deaths from the new coronavirus. If you haven’t already, take time to cherish your loved ones. Life is precious.

Events like this make us stop and think: What would happen if something devastating occurred to you or one of your family members? How do you keep up with living expenses? Would you be able to keep your home? Your car? These are all valid concerns, but they don’t have to be concerns at all — with the help of insurance.

You work so hard to build all this wealth, but what’s your safety net to protect it? Especially if you’re still dependent on a paycheck (or Mom’s & Dad’s paychecks), what would you have to give up if you lost that income? Luckily, insurance allows us to buy a safety net for everything we depend on or value, at a fraction of the cost.

There are many types of insurance, but they fall in three main categories, followed by some examples:

  • Family – Life, Travel, Pet
  • Self – Medical, Dental, Vision, Disability Income, Long-Term Care
  • Assets – Homeowners/Renters, Auto/Car, Umbrella

We’ll eventually take a deeper dive into the different examples, but the point is to consider what you need to protect, and make sure you have insurance to cover it. Best case scenario, you never have to use it. But you’ll have peace of mind, knowing that you are taking care of what you love and who you love.

Homework: Take some time to list everything that is important to you, and don’t forget your family members! Do you or does your family have insurance to cover all of the things you value? How does your family protect itself in the event of losing a source of income?

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Do You Need A Rainy Day Fund?

Rainy day fund. Emergency fund. Cash reserve. Call it what you prefer, but the important thing is to have one. What is a rainy day fund? It’s money set aside to weather unexpected “storms” in your life. For instance, did your car break down, and you need money for a repair? Lost your job and need money to survive until you find another job? Have a big medical expense that came out of the blue? When you suddenly need money, you’ll be thankful that you have a rainy day fund.

To build your own rainy day fund, you need to save towards it. Make it one of your savings goals, just like any other big purchase you wish to make. As you accumulate money in your rainy day fund, you may decide to cap it after a certain amount. If you earn steady income, you may find that an amount equivalent to 3 months’ expenses is a sufficient target goal for your rainy day fund. If your income fluctuates from month to month, you may feel more comfortable with covering up to 6 months of expenses through your rainy day fund. Some people choose to continue saving towards their rainy day fund even after they reach a comfortable amount. That way, if they ever need to break into the rainy day fund, they already built in a way to replenish what was spent.

Young savers probably don’t have a reason to save for a rainy day fund. After all, Mom or Dad is the rainy day fund. Kids can break from this mentality by having something to be responsible for. What is a possible sudden expense that can hit? Maybe it’s a vet bill for your pet. Or perhaps a replacement for a broken cell phone. It might even be new cleats for soccer. If kids are given the responsibility, they will more likely build a habit of saving for that rainy day fund.

Why make a rainy day fund a savings priority? Let’s play out the scenario without a rainy day fund. You could tap into savings for other goals to pay for this expense. But that means giving up or delaying those other goals. Some goals, like college or retirement, don’t have much room to postpone. If no savings exists, you would need to borrow money. Borrowing money requires that you pay back the loan, with additional interest, and that payback eats away at the money you earn. Not to mention if another unexpected expense occurs, even more money goes into paying debt. To prevent debt from taking control, put that rainy day fund first!

Regardless of what other financial goals you have, a rainy day fund should be at the top of your list. If it suddenly rained, wouldn’t you rather have an umbrella? That is exactly how a rainy day fund works!

Homework: What is the right amount for your rainy day fund? If you do not have one already, how much can you devote from monthly savings to build your rainy day fund?

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The Case For Non-Qualified Accounts

If you have money in an account, chances are that you have at least one non-qualified account. What does it mean to be “non-qualified?” Don’t let the name fool you into thinking it’s a bad thing. Being non-qualified simply refers to “not qualifying” for any tax benefits. Any money you place into a non-qualified account has already been taxed, and any growth on your money is taxed too. While there are no tax advantages, there are good reasons to use non-qualified accounts.

Because non-qualified accounts do not receive tax benefits, there is no limit to how much you can place in these accounts. You also have the freedom to withdraw money as you please, when you please. On the other hand, qualified accounts, such as 401(k) plans or IRAs or 529 Plans, trade tax advantages for restrictions.

There are many non-qualified accounts, but the most common ones are checking or savings accounts at the bank. If you prefer to invest your money, you can use a non-qualified brokerage account to place all your investments (i.e. stocks, bonds, mutual funds). These are just a few examples of non-qualified accounts.

When it comes to qualified vs. non-qualified accounts, it really depends on how you plan to use that money in order to decide which account is right for you. If you need flexibility to withdraw money at any time, non-qualified accounts offer that flexibility. If you have time to allow your money to grow tax-deferred, then a qualified account might be more appropriate. Neither is good nor bad, and you can even use both at the same time!

Homework: Non-Qualified or Qualified? Take a look at your own accounts, and determine which is which. If you have non-qualified accounts, does it make sense for your money to stay in those accounts? What about your qualified accounts?

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The Secret To Smart Investing

The old adage “Buy Low, Sell High” works great … if you have a crystal ball for every investment you make. In reality, no one can predict with absolute certainty the best time to buy or sell an investment. How do you know that a stock is at its lowest price when you buy? How can you tell that a stock price won’t climb higher after you sell? Stop stressing over things you cannot control. That is why you should remove one word from your investment vocabulary: timing.

Now replace that word with something else: dollar-cost averaging.

Dollar-cost averaging is a method of investing the same amount of money on a consistent basis, so that your overall price tag ends up an average rather than the highest point or the lowest point on the scale. Why does this work in your favor? Because you are investing the same amount of money each time, you’re buying more shares when the price is low. That’s smart! You managed to scoop up a good deal. And when the investment price goes up? You naturally buy less shares with the same amount of money.

Think of it like your favorite pair of pants. When they’re on sale, maybe you buy more than one pair. But when they go back to retail price, you stick to just buying one pair. The difference between investing and buying clothes is that with investments, nothing will advertise that they are on sale. That’s where dollar-cost averaging helps you out. This method automatically buys more at a low price.

How do you get started? Chances are if you have a 401(k), you’re already dollar-cost averaging. That is because you already apply the same amount on a regular basis to an investment. But you can do the same without a 401(k). If you have a sum of money, rather than investing it all at one time, consider dollar-cost averaging instead. Let’s use a sample stock purchase to illustrate this strategy.

Dollar-Cost Averaging Example

Investment Amount: $300 per month

Shares of Stock Purchased:

  • January @ $10 / share = 30 shares
    • Average price @ $10.00 / share ($300 paid for 30 shares)
  • February @ $15 / share = 20 shares
    • Average price @ $12.00 / share ($600 paid for 50 shares)
  • March @ $20 / share = 15 shares
    • Average price @ $13.85 / share ($900 paid for 65 shares)
  • April @ $16 / share = 18.75 shares
    • Average price @ $14.33 / share ($1,200 paid for 83.75 shares)
  • May @ $15 / share = 20 shares
    • Average price @ $14.46 / share ($1,500 paid for 103.75 shares)
  • June @ $20 / share = 15 shares
    • Average price @ $15.16 / share ($1,800 paid for 118.75 shares)

Remember when we talked about timing? Can you predict what the price of the stock will be next? You can try to guess, but would you bet all your money on it? Now you understand why timing the market is not such a great idea.

As you notice in the example, the actual price of the stock took a bumpy ride, sometimes jumping $5 up or down between months. But thanks to dollar-cost averaging, you enjoyed a much smoother ride, with the biggest swing being a $2 difference in average price between January and February. Most people cannot pay every second of attention to investing, let alone stomach the bumpy ride. Dollar-cost averaging makes for a much smoother ride. If you were on a roller coaster, wouldn’t you want one with smooth turns, rather than jagged cliffs? That is why smart investors choose dollar-cost averaging!

Homework: Make dollar-cost averaging a new year’s resolution, whether it be through a 401(k) or an investment account. Consider tracking the average price paid per share every month for the next 6 months to see how dollar-cost averaging works.

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The Silent Partner: Cash Flow

Last week we learned that building net worth is a top goal for your personal finances. How do you accumulate net worth? Since net worth relies on assets, the key to growing net worth is to grow assets. Assets like investments help because they grow in value, but what if your investments take a downturn? Then the only way to grow your assets is to add more money. For that reason and to make investment purchases to begin with, you need cash flow. What is cash flow?

Cash Flow = Income (-) Expenses

Income

Income accounts for all money coming in, hence “in” “come.” This could be anything from working wages to monetary gifts to investment growth (take bank interest, for example).

Expenses

Expenses take money out of your wallet. If you need to pay for it, and it does not go back in your wallet, then it’s an expense. Rent, groceries, shopping, pet care are just a few examples. If you calculate cash flow on a monthly basis, remember to include any annual income (such as a bonus) and annual expenses as a monthly amount.

Cash Flow Sample Calculation

Monthly Income ($3,200):

  • $3,200 Paycheck (gross or before taxes and deductions)

Monthly Expenses ($2,800):

  • $1,500 Rent
  • $ 500 Taxes
  • $ 200 Car Loan Payments
  • $ 200 Groceries
  • $ 150 Health Care Insurance and Medical Costs
  • $ 150 Auto (Gas, Maintenance, Vehicle Registration)
  • $ 100 Personal Spending

Monthly Cash Flow = Income (-) Expenses = $3,200-$2,800 = $400

Positive or Negative?

As with net worth, the key to cash flow is to stay positive! Limit expenses to no more than your income in order to live within your means. Not living within your means will require borrowing money, which ends up costing more (sometimes much more) than the paid price. And paying back debt eats away at your income too. So if you encounter negative cash flow, consider lowering expenses or increasing income to get to a positive cash flow.

For those with positive cash flow, the remaining amount is probably used for savings, right? But are there enough savings to reach your goals? Rather than looking at cash flow as available savings, consider subtracting savings along with necessary expenses, and then treat what’s leftover as your spending allowance. Here’s a better equation to follow:

Discretionary Spending = Income (-) Savings (-) Necessary Expenses

Net worth combined with cash flow are a great starting point if you’re figuring out where you stand financially. Anyone can be a financial ace with a bit of math and some money!

Homework: Calculate your cash flow. Is there anything you need to adjust? How are you doing on savings and expenses?

Winter Break: Ace Academy will skip the next two weeks’ lessons and be back in session during the first full week of January. Happy Holidays to all!

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Your Financial Score

How do you determine how well you are doing financially? There are many money “scores” out there, including credit rating (a.k.a. FICO score) or financial independence score. But the best way to get a baseline score and track how well you are doing year after year is to calculate your net worth.

Net Worth = Assets (-) Liabilities

Assets

What comprises assets? These are the things you own that you can assign value. For instance, how much can you sell your house for today? How much would someone pay to buy your car? How much do you have in savings accounts? These are all considered assets because they add value.

Liabilities

Liabilities account for any debts owed. For instance, if you sold a home with a mortgage, would you be able to capture all the money from the sale? No. A mortgage is borrowed money that you have to pay back. The amount you earn is what remains after the mortgage debt is paid off. Therefore, in this case, the mortgage is a liability, since it takes away value from what you own. And liabilities don’t only apply to tangible items, like homes or cars. Student loans and credit card debt count as liabilities too.

Net Worth Sample Calculation

Assets ($480,000):

  • $400,000 House
  • $ 40,000 Car
  • $ 40,000 Savings Accounts

Liabilities ($230,000):

  • $200,000 Mortgage
  • $ 20,000 Car Loan
  • $ 10,000 Student Loans

Net Worth = Assets (-) Liabilities = $480,000-$230,000 = $250,000

Keep Score

Now that you have a starting number for net worth, repeat the same calculation with updated numbers next year, and the next year, and so on. This will be your very own financial scorecard. And net worth should follow the same rules as any game. Stay positive and keep it up!

Tune in next week to learn about cash flow and how it relates to net worth. Or subscribe below to automatically receive weekly lessons in your inbox!

Homework: What is your net worth? Jot down all your assets and liabilities, and see what number you come up with!

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Buying A Home: What Is In A Mortgage?

Are you considering buying a home someday? Unless you have all the cash to buy that home outright, chances are you will end up borrowing some money. A mortgage is a loan specifically used to purchase a home. Consider it the middle man if you are not buying the home with 100% cash. The mortgage company pays the cash for the home, and you pay back the borrowed money along with interest to the mortgage company over time. You become mortgage-free once you pay off the full loan or when you sell the home and return what is owed to the mortgage company.

Zillow data from 2016 revealed that 42% of US homeowners are mortgage-free, meaning the majority of Americans still rely on mortgages to pay for their homes. If that majority includes you, it’s a good idea to get acquainted with some mortgage key terms.

Mortgage Key Terms

  • Down Payment. Why bother with saving money when you can just borrow the money to purchase a home? In most cases, you will still be asked to put a portion down at time of purchase, known as a down payment, to show the mortgage company that you are serious about the purchase. If a borrower tries to flee and dodge payback responsibilities, at least the mortgage company can minimize losses through the down payment they received. The amount required for a down payment can vary with different qualifying programs, typically ranging anywhere between 5%-20% of the home purchase price.
  • Interest Rate. The downside to choosing a mortgage over cash is that you pay more for the house in the long run, due to interest that you must pay on top of the principal loan amount. However, interest rates on mortgages tend to be lower than other loans, such as credit cards. Depending on IRS rules, mortgage interest may even be tax-deductible, so you might be paying less interest than you think. Rates are subject to change, so consider locking the interest rate when you are approved for a loan. The type of loan can be a fixed rate mortgage or adjustable rate mortgage, or ARM for short. If you don’t want to risk the possibility of increased interest on your loan, a fixed rate mortgage will allow you to keep the same interest rate for the life of the loan. If you believe interest rates could decrease, so that you pay less interest during the life of your loan, you would opt for an ARM.
  • PMI. PMI stands for private mortgage insurance and applies to mortgages with less than 20% down payment. This pays for the mortgage company’s insurance in the event that a borrower becomes delinquent on payments, and the mortgage company is left with a debt to pay. If you have PMI because your down payment was less than 20%, not to fret. You can call your mortgage company to eliminate PMI once you reach 20% equity on your home. Equity is how much of the home you own.
  • Mortgage Term. The term on your mortgage is how many years you are expected to pay back the mortgage company until you return 100% of the loan. The most common terms are 15 years or 30 years.
  • Impound Account. Mortgage companies allow borrowers to bundle their property tax and homeowner’s insurance payments into the monthly mortgage payments. It’s entirely your choice whether or not to use an impound account, and there is no interest charged for doing so. Property tax and homeowner’s insurance bills typically hit once or twice a year. For many people, it’s easier to have the money collect in a fund to pay for these bills, rather than keeping track on their own how much to save throughout the year, so that they can afford to pay a big chunk once or twice a year.
  • Foreclosure. This is a worst case scenario, in which a borrower cannot keep up with mortgage payments, and the borrower loses the home to the mortgage company. Unlike credit cards, which allow the borrower to pay a portion of the total charges each month, a mortgage payment must be paid in full and on-time each month.
  • Refinance. If you already have a mortgage, but want to change the term or want to pull money out of home equity or interest rates are lower, you might consider a refinance. This just means you are changing one or more factors on the loan.

A mortgage will factor in the principal loan amount, interest rate and mortgage term to dictate a monthly payment. Most mortgage companies will only qualify borrowers who can prove that the mortgage payment is 35% or less of their income. Your credit score, or trustworthiness, also plays a factor in how much you are qualified to borrow.

Although they are not to be taken lightly, mortgages help many live their dreams of becoming homeowners. Sometimes mortgages allow people to afford homes that make money when the homes are sold. Other times, mortgages allow people to pay off their homes and never make another payment to live there. Whatever the reason, a mortgage can be a great tool to reach those dreams!

Homework: Use an online mortgage calculator to view sample monthly payments by entering a home purchase amount, down payment, interest rate, and term. If you (or your parents) have an existing mortgage, examine the mortgage statement. Is it time for a refinance?

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The 411 On 401(k) Plans

Savings accounts come in many forms, and one of the most popular in the US is the 401(k) plan. It’s essentially a piggy bank that you should not crack open until after age 59 1/2, close to retirement age for most of the workforce which is why it is often viewed as a retirement savings account. To make matters more confusing, it’s named after a tax code, hence a bunch of numbers in the name: 401(k). How it works is quite simple by learning a few fundamentals. And if you work for a non-profit or government agency, most of the following will be true for you too, except instead of a 401(k), you call it a 403(b).

Understanding a 401(k) plan starts with learning how to use it and how not to abuse it. Using it requires being employed by a company that offers a 401(k) plan. This account belongs to you, and you keep it if you leave the employer. A 401(k) relies on a defined contribution, a percentage of your salary (%) that will automatically go from earnings into your 401(k). In many cases, employers will offer a 401(k) match for contributing to the 401(k) plan. You decide how much to contribute, and your employer matches that amount, up to a limit dictated by your employer. So your employer is actually paying you more money than you thought! Isn’t it neat to get an extra $50 or $100 or $200 per month? Just remember though, you have to contribute to the 401(k) in order for the employer to match.

Why use a 401(k) vs. saving at the bank? The difference with a 401(k) is taxation. Money going into the 401(k) is pre-tax, and any growth on that money is tax-deferred. What does that mean? Taxes take a share of any money you make, so as an example, earning $100 really means earning $85, based on a 15% tax rate. However, in a 401(k), that $100 equals $100 going in. If that $100 grows to $150 this year, you keep that $150 in the account, as opposed to taxes taking $7.50 away ($50 growth x 15% tax = $7.50). Keep in mind that this example only illustrates $100. Imagine what this means for $10,000 or $100,000. Now before you go putting all of your paycheck into a 401(k), there is a limit on how much you can contribute each year, set by IRS tax regulations. This year (2019), the limit is $19,000 for the year, with the ability to contribute more if age 50 or older, known as catch-up contributions.

Notice I said that money in your 401(k) is tax-deferred, not tax-free. In a 401(k), taxes take their share when you withdraw money, at your normal tax rate. But the important thing is that your money had more potential to grow because taxes did not eat away at every cent along the way. Thus, the 401(k) is known as a tax-advantaged account, a special type of savings account.

How does growth happen in a 401(k)? Through investing! Often people confuse a 401(k) with the stock market. True, you can place stocks in your 401(k), but stocks are not the only type of investment you can have. Going back to a former lesson when we talked about planting seeds, the 401(k) is just a flower pot, and you get to decide which investments, or seeds, to grow inside. Most employers limit your investment choices to a few, so that you are not overwhelmed by the options.

A 401(k) is not always used as a retirement savings account. Let’s discuss some possible pitfalls with the 401(k). Try to avoid the following:

  • Early Withdrawals. If you withdraw money from your 401(k) before you turn age 59 1/2, you not only pay the taxes owed, but you also get penalized an extra 10% on your withdrawal. That diminishes your earning power.
  • 401(k) Loans. Some 401(k) plans allow you to take a loan. But borrowing from a 401(k) means you lose out on the time that your investments could be growing. Time is something you cannot buy back.
  • Not Capturing Full 401(k) Match. Although you could argue that any contribution to the 401(k) is still savings, not capturing the full employer match is a loss for you. To view it from another angle, if your employer let you choose between $50 more or $100 more per month, and neither option required you to work more, wouldn’t you choose the $100? That’s the same as capturing full 401(k) match!

There you have it! The 401(k). It may seem like a lot to absorb, but just think of the flower pot, and you are well on your way to being an ace at the 401(k)!

Homework: Take a look at your 401(k). Are you capturing full 401(k) match from your employer? Parents can start kids young with a savings match! Learn more by clicking here.

Ace Academy will skip next week’s lesson in observation of Thanksgiving holiday and resume the following week. I also want to take this moment to thank you for reading!

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